Some hotels have restaurants for mid-day and evening meals. Many
of the French-run Chambres d’hôte and the English-managed
Bed-and-breakfast establishments will provide a packed lunch on
request, and some will also provide an evening meal if requested
in advance.
Towns such as Albert, Péronne, Doullens and, of course,
Amiens have restaurants or brasserie-style bars which offer meals
in the middle of the day – although they may stop serving
lunch by about 2.00 pm; some of the latter do not provide meals
in the evening. Café-bars are less likely to offer food.
Establishments offering meals put a menu up outside, so you can
consider their fare and charges before entering; there will normally
be a complete ‘menu’ of two or three courses which
is modest in price and usually very good value. Local dishes include
‘Ficelle picarde’, a substantial savoury stuffed pancake,
and ‘tarte au Maroilles’, a cheese flan made with
the full-flavoured regional cheese. If you want an unusual local
speciality, look for anguilles – either in the
form of a smoked hors d’oeuvre or as a hot dish.
The eels are fished in broad lagoons along the Somme, where eel-traps
can be seen set in the current of the water.
It is easy to make up a picnic meal, buying ingredients either
from a supermarket or a ‘charcuterie’, the French
equivalent of a delicatessen. As well as providing the usual cooked
meats, cheese, etc., they will have a range of ready-prepared
salads, sold in plastic lidded containers of various sizes. They
will usually also make up sandwiches using their cold meats –
unlike the standard English sandwich, this will consist of a length
of baguette sliced along the middle and filled, without
butter. If you take your own picnic equipment, this is an excellent
way of making sure of your mid-day meal – and don’t
forget the bottle-opener/corkscrew!
As in Britain, very few villages now have shops, or bars/cafés
providing meals, so don’t count on finding a meal easily
in the rural areas of the battlefields – but you may be
lucky and find a bar/café that will make you a sandwich
or an omelette.
Remember also that many food shops are closed on Mondays; on the
other hand, bakeries and confectioners (boulangerie,
patisserie) are open on Sunday mornings.
Unless you specify otherwise, coffee will come black, in a fairly
small cup, with wrapped sugar lumps and often a small biscuit.
If you want white coffee, ask for it with milk or ‘un
grand crème’, which will arrive in a larger
cup with the milk already added.
Similarly, tea will generally come as a tea-bag with a cup of
hot water, and without milk unless you ask for it. ‘Un
thé au lait’ is the formula for achieving a
small jug of milk with the tea.
This is not a wine-producing area, but French regional wines
of various types (and cost) will always be available, and the
‘house’ red, white or rosé will usually be
very reasonable. Beer may be Continental-style lager or brands
familiar from the UK. ‘Bière de garde’ is made
in northern France and Belgium and is more like British bitter
beer.